======================INFRARED_NIGHT_SCOPE====================== 

Build an Infrared     night scope 
                      Building a night scope is easy if you have heart of it 
                      which is image intensifier part. I would recommend using 
                      PVS-5 module which uses 
                      'MCP' or Micro Channel Plate technology. This is a U.S. 
                      2nd generation device and is rated at 15,000 times light 
                      gain. The resolution is one of best 
                      on market. It was used in Desert Storm and released to 
                      surplus market about 2 1/2 years ago. However, it can't 
                      be exported out of U.S. :-( 
                      The device can be found for between $350 to $700 
                      depending on quality you want in terms how new it is or 
                      if it used. I will list a couple of vendors 
                      at end. 
                      I have built several of these scopes with and without 
                      targeting lasers. The laser will kill your battery in no 
                      time and I recommend not using one for 
                      normal use as PVS-5 has excellent response without it 
                      (unless you want to scare crap out of someone in total 
                      darkness running around your 
                      yard. Just put a laser dot on his forehead and let him 
                      figure out where it came from and what is at end of 
                      it....like a 30.30 :-) Anyway, you will need 
                      following: 
                      10" length of 1 3/4" PVC plastic pipe (thinwall) 
                      6" length of 3/4" PVC pipe and end caps (thinwall) 
                      1- 35mm lens with shutter 
                      1- eyepiece (see text) 
                      1- lens mount (I use Minolta lens adaptors and lenses 
                      which I pick up at pawn shops dirt cheap) 
                      1- 3/4" washer 
                      1- small spring 
                      1- micro pushbutton switch 
                      1- 3 volt lithium battery (I use DL123A which Radio 
                      Shaft...ahhh..Shack sells for $7.99) 
                      1- tube of silicon rubber (black) 
                      And of course, one PVS-5 MCP module 
                      When you receive your module do not pull on power wires 
                      or they will break off inside of power supply and you now 
                      have a several hundred 
                      dollar paper weight! Do no handle front screen if 
                      possible. If you do, wipe it clean with a optical lens 
                      cleaner. DO NOT TWEEK THE TWO 
                      POTS IN THE POWER SUPPLY!! These pots adjust ABC 
                      (Automatic Brightness Control) and AGC (Automatic Gain 
                      Control). If pots 
                      are set too high, a flashover will occur in Micro 
                      Channel Plates and burn out one or more which means that 
                      part of display is dead. This is 
                      noticed by a black spot on display when PVS-5 is turned 
                      on. With that out of way, lets continue... 
                      Using fine sandpaper or cheesecloth, smooth out inside 
                      surface of larger PVC pipe. Test fit PVS-5 module by 
                      sliding it into PVC pipe. It 
                      should fit snug but not tight. Continue sanding until 
                      fit is snug. Next, remove module and wipe down inside of 
                      pipe. Spray inside flat 
                      black and let it dry. Once its dry, mount front lens 
                      mount to PVC pipe and mount lens. Slide PVS-5 into other 
                      end and slide it to about 
                      2">from lens. Focus lens to infinity and close shutter 
                      all way so that only a pinhole is open. Point it towards 
                      an object 10 feet or better 
                      away. Apply 3 volts to PVS-5 and slide it back and forth 
                      until clearest image can be seen on display screen. Move 
                      focus on lens in 
                      and out and insure image remains clear. Secure PVS-5 
                      into housing with silicon rubber. DO NOT GET IT ON THE 
                      DISPLAY OR 
                      THE FRONT SCREEN! In case you are wondering why you can 
                      use PVS-5 in normal lighting (like a shop or lab) its 
                      because of automatic 
                      brightness function. The PVS-5 was designed to eliminate 
                      blooming problems with muzzle flash and bright light 
                      sources such as gun fire and 
                      explosions. Just don't open shutter all way (though it 
                      wouldn't hurt it). 
                      After silicon rubber is cured, we now start on 'fun' 
                      (ugh !) part. This is time consuming (about an hour) and 
                      requires a little patience. The 
                      eyepiece that I use is a 35mm lens that is 'reversed' 
                      I.E. you look through front of it rather than back. The 
                      reason I do this is to eliminate 
                      pincushion effect of PVS-5's concave screen. But you can 
                      use anything that will magnify image (even a 8X jeweler's 
                      eye loupe which I used 
                      on my first one with 'passable' results). Anyway, if you 
                      choose to use a 35mm lens like I did, then we have to 
                      rework lens. First unscrew whole 
                      body of lens. Most will have a small screw stop that 
                      won't allow you to unscrew it completely unless screw is 
                      removed. Once lens is 
                      separated from shutter and rear optic, clean grease off 
                      of threads. Next, try a fit test into PVC housing. If 
                      lens is too tight, grind 
                      threads down until lens fits snug, but not overly tight. 
                      Next, drill a small hole 1/2" from rear of PVS-5 at top 
                      to pass power wires 
                      through. Now, put lens onto PVC and press it as far in 
                      as it will go. Now apply power to PVS-5. The image will 
                      be blurred. Here is fun 
                      part. Remove power and lens and using a hacksaw or 
                      bandsaw, cut 1/2" off of PVC pipe and try it again. 
                      Continue doing this until it 'starts' to 
                      come into focus. Once it starts to come into focus, saw 
                      PVC in 1/8" sections. Continue until display is crystal 
                      clear. This has to be done whether 
                      you use a 35mm lens or not. Whatever you choose, housing 
                      has to be cut to focus eyepiece correctly. At this point, 
                      you need to remove 
                      eyepiece, front lens mount and front lens. Cover front 
                      and rear of housing with paper and masking tape. Now you 
                      can spray paint housing 
                      whatever color you choose. I do mine in flat satin black 
                      and they come out great ! Set it aside to dry. After its 
                      dry, remove paper and masking tape. 
                      Blow out any particles. Insure that PVS-5 is secure with 
                      silicon rubber. Touch up any scrapes of flat black paint 
                      on inner surface to 
                      eliminate reflections. Clean front and back of PVS-5 
                      with optical lens cleaner. Re-assemble front lens mount 
                      and front lens. Insert 
                      eyepiece. Drill two 1/16" hole about 1/2" from rear of 
                      housing on either side of eyepiece. Secure eyepiece with 
                      two small 2-56 screws. 
                      Apply power and insure all is well so far. 
                      Now for battery holder. This is what 3/4" PVC pipe and 
                      end caps are for. Put an end cap on one end and place it 
                      on main housing so that 
                      front end cap is against front lens mount. Measure back 
                      from eyepiece about 3/4" and put a mark on small PVC 
                      pipe. Cut pipe on 
                      mark and place other end cap on small pipe. Put whole 
                      thing on main housing and check fit. If it is to close to 
                      eyepiece, mark and 
                      cut it where it is at a suitable distance. Next, mark 
                      exactly where wires are coming out of housing on bottom 
                      of battery holder pipe and 
                      drill a small hole there so that wires go straight into 
                      battery holder. Next, drill a hole for pushbutton about 
                      1/2" from end of front end 
                      cap. Remove both caps and set aside for now. Measure 1 
                      1/2" from rear of battery holder and place a mark here. 
                      Now saw with a hacksaw 
                      about 3/4 of way through battery holder to form a slot. 
                      Grind washer so it fits flush into slot (I.E. round top 
                      is even with round top 
                      of battery holder). Next nip a small slot out of side 
                      of washer so that ground wire can pass through it. Insert 
                      washer into slot and 
                      insure it is flush then epoxy it into place by putting a 
                      dab of epoxy OPPOSITE slotted side inside of battery 
                      holder. Next, take a small piece of 
                      insulated hookup wire and strip one end. Form a loop that 
                      will let a 4-40 screw pass through it and solder loop. 
                      Next place a 4-40 flat head screw 
                      into hole in center of washer with head pointing 
                      towards battery. Place loop of wire on other side and 
                      secure it with a 
                      4-40 nut. Solder other end to one side of pushbutton 
                      switch. Connect positive wire from PVS-5 to other side of 
                      switch. Route 
                      ground wire from PVS-5 through slot in washer and out 
                      back of housing. Next we make rear battery connection by 
                      using a 
                      spring secured into rear end cap. I used a spring from a 
                      'D' cell battery holder and secured it into place with a 
                      2-56 screw and nut. I also soldered 
                      ground wire to spring after I determined length so 
                      that cap would just come off and let battery slide free. 
                      But use your ingenuity on 
                      this. Install battery with positive side pointing 
                      towards front of scope and put on rear end cape. Press 
                      button and viola, check for a 
                      working scope. 
                      Finally (whew) install front end cap and secure battery 
                      housing to main housing with a bead of silicon rubber 
                      along both sides of battery 
                      housing. Smooth silicone down so it looks like it was 
                      made like that. Let silicon dry. Next, paint housing 
                      whatever color you want. Again, I 
                      used flat satin black. 
                      DO not point your scope at sun or other really bright 
                      light source. Even though scope has automatic gain 
                      control, a bright IR source could burn 
                      MCP. 
                      One reason for using lens adaptor was so that a 
                      telephoto lens could be used or just a standard 35mm 
                      lens. Also, 35mm eyepiece lens makes it 
                      nice for mounting to other devices like a camera (with a 
                      80mm extension) with threaded lens front. I have built 
                      maybe 14 of these and they are 
                      great scopes. Far better than Russian stuff in terms of 
                      resolution and clarity. Below is vendors for MCP modules: 
                      MWK Industries 
                      1269 W. Pomona 
                      Corona, CA 91720 
                      1-800-356-7714 
                      1-909-278-0563 
                      Cost: $395 item number NIGTU2 (ask for Martin) 
                      Meredith Instruments 
                      P.O. Box 1724 
                      5035 N. 55th Ave. #5 
                      Glendale, AZ 85301 
                      1-800-722-0392 
                      1-602-934-9387 
                      Have fun with it and let me know how it goes :-) 
                      (particularly if you get some foxy lady that likes nude 
                      moonbathing and you get some nice 8 x 11's :-) 
                      My e-mail is wellison@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu. 
                      And if you need an IR filter for that spotlight so you 
                      can use it to 'help out' above project, here's a little 
                      something: 
                      The large amounts of IR plastic filter sheet are no 
                      longer available, but here's a hint. 
                      Go to a theatrical lighting supplier and buy two filter 
                      gels, one for "congo blue" and one for primary red. 
                      Overlap them and you get black. However, 
                      these dyes are transparent to IR. Lay them between thin 
                      plexi for a big filter sheet. They aren't entirely black, 
                      you can see sun through them. for 
                      darker filtering, overlap more sheets. The standard sheet 
                      is 18" x 24" (I think) and costs $3 to $5. 
                      and (From John De Armond) 
                      Edmund Scientific sells surplus sniperscope illuminator 
                      IR filters for about $20. This is a glass filter that can 
                      stand heat of a large lamp. 

                      Also see http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de/~cdodge/PCIR/